*View of Garibaldi Lake and glaciated peaks from the ridge at sunset*

Panorama Ridge is a one of the best-known destinations in Garibaldi Provincial park, it offers 360 views of the surrounding major peaks and a top-down view of the entire Garibaldi Lake. Thanks to social media the popularity of this hike grew exponentially. Despite its crowdedness during weekends, it is still one of my favourites.

So when Lucas and Defne (two of my friends who love the beautiful coastal mountains in B.C., but have to go back to Ontario for school) asked me for recommendations for their one last backpacking trip near Vancouver, it was an easy decision and I was also happy tag along. In order to avoid the crowd, I suggested taking the less busy but slightly longer Helm Creek approach, as I have never taken this route either. After days of obsessively checking for camping pass availabilities, I managed to snatch one permit.

A moderately early 6 A.M. start was agreed upon. However, the three of us all got home late from a goodbye party (I got home at 1 A.M and got into bed at 1:30 A.M). Woken up by the alarm at 5 A.M. I decided that I needed an extra 30 minutes (Lucas and Defne also appreciated it) to function and in the end we started driving at 7 A.M. After another hour-ish on the Sea to Sky highway and another half an hour on a few kilometres of FSR, we found ourselves at Cheakamus Lake trailhead.

We quickly double checked our gears, finished some last minute packing and shaved off extra weights at the outhouse at the trailhead (it was noting that it was the most disgusting outhouse I have ever used). The trail was flat for around 2km before turning right at a junction. From there we crossed Helm Creek on a bridge and started the moderate uphill switchbacks. There is not much worth noting in the first 9km leading up to the campsite as it was mostly just about putting one foot in front of another. We arrived at the campsite around in 3 hours at around noon. The tent pads are big and can easily fit two 1-person tents.

*Helm Creek campground, a very unique angle of the iconic Black Tusk. We were pleasantly surprised by the clear sky as the forest fire smoke was looking horrendous near Vancouver*

*My tent, Lucas and Defne taking a power nap*

We had planned to watch the sunset on Panorama Ridge so we had plenty of time to kill. After a nap we started packing up our lighter backpacks and heading out at around 2 P.M.. The views opened up quickly after we left the campsite and the trail was mostly flat. We stopped every 100m to take pictures and it was nice to enjoy an easy day.

*The Black Tusk looks intimidating from here*

*A close-up shot of the Black Tusk. I have only been to the false summit (left side on top). It looks quite impossible from here.*

*A wider shot of the Tusk and the volcanic landscape in the foreground*

Looking back at the peaks in the north, there is Whistler Peak (left), Wedge Mountain (far right) and Mount Weart (close right)

*Slowly progressing onto the volcanic terrain. It was a bit like being on a different planet.*

*Lucas enjoying himself on the volcanic field, it truly was a special place*

It was my first time walking on the volcanic field too and It was an absolute joyful experience. It is quite (we only saw 4 other people) and far more beautiful than the Rubble Creek approach. I think it’s safe to say that if I were to hike Panorama Ridge or the Black Tusk, Helm Creek is the way to go.

After crossing some small streams, we were onto the final flat walk on the volcanic field.

*A Panorama shot to give a sense of scale*

*Defne going for a jog*, *the black volcanic rocks are very satisfying to look at*

We stopped by another lake just before the trail started to climb up to the ridge but was swamped by wasps and flies so we quickly had some snacks and started the uphill battle. Soon we merged onto the trail that’s coming from Rubble Creek and there was the crowds. People were talking and I felt like I was walking through a Walmart in some places. Thankfully most people were on their way down since not many people hike up for the sunset.

*Defne and I at the start of the uphill*

*Me waiting on top of the typical terrain on the ridge. It was fun walking through the rock field.*

The ridge was enjoyable as usual, only downside is that the smoke was rolling in in the west so the Tantalus Range is obscured. I was in the zone and walking ahead only to realize that Lucas and Defne were nowhere to be found. I waited for 10 minutes and just when I was going to start hiking down thinking they might’ve fallen to their deaths they emerged from the rocks. Later they told me that they had taken a nap half way up the mountains (???).

*Lucas with the Black Tusk in the background*

*Defne picked a fun scramble route up this part*

Soon enough we topped up the hill and the views opened up. I was happy to see that Mt. Garibaldi and nearby peaks were not obscured by the smoke and the lake water was just as crispy blue as I remembered. There were a few groups on top but we chose a quiet spot to enjoy the view.

*The classic shot from top of Panorama Ridge. Mount Guard (left), Mount Garibaldi (right) and the Table (right foreground)*

*A wider shot of the Sphinx Glacier and the Sphinx (middle), Mount Guard (right)*

*A zoomed in shot of one of my future objectives — Castle Towers. It looks super far and quite intimidating from here.* *Note the rock pillars off to the right side of the summit, one of which is Phyllis’ Engine (considered to be one of the hardest climbs in the sea to sky corridor)*

*A shot of the reflections looking at Mt. Price with the Tantalus Range massif looming in the background. It was smoky in this direction.*

*Me on top of Panorama Ridge taking in the views*

I logged my dinner up the whole way along with extra water and my stove so it was time for a cooking session on top of a mountain. I quickly fired up the stove and boiled some water to pour into my dehydrated meal. It was quite tasty even though I put in way too much water. We had another 1.5 hour to kill so we put on some layers, sat down and enjoyed the view.

I was just about to take a walk along the ridge to explore some nearby hills, I heard Defne screamed “Nooooooo my phoneee”. I quickly ran back and she was pointing down the cliffside and oh well it was down there somewhere. The rescue mission soon began with her downclimbing into the gully that’s filled with loose rocks. People nearby watching were quite sketched out about what we were doing but I knew she had the skill to not fall. Eventually she decided the rocks were too loose and came back. I then went down only to realize that the phone was a lot further down then I had thought it would be but I thought why not give it a try.

Taking a steeper but less loose route I found it easier to go down and I kicked into the loose rocks to make steps. After 15 minutes I made it to the phone and surprisingly the only damage was a little crack in the screen protector. Climbing back up was a lot easier and quite fun. I felt pretty safe as at no point I felt like I would orphan my parents.

The whole way up I was very concerned that I might drop the phone again as my shorts did not have zipper pockets and there were a few places that required extensive leg movements such that it can easily slip out. Fortunately it didn’t.

We sat back down on the rocks, the sun was setting and we had the best seats for the show.

*A wider shot of the Sphinx in alpineglow*

*First clear view of the massive Tantalus Range*

*Defne posing in front the sunset and the Black Tusk*

*A wider shot of the sunset horizon, you can see the smoke*

*The Black Tusk looking ominous* *but majestic*

There were only 2 other groups that stayed on top waiting for the sunset and we started hiking down as soon as the sun dipped under the horizon as we wanted to get off the ridge before dark. It was too beautiful to not stop and take photos every 5 minutes and we ended up walking down with the other group. We parted ways at the junction at the bottom of the ridge as they were camping at Taylor Meadows. Headlamps were out at this point and we all were mentally preparing for the 2 hour hike back to camp in the dark.

It was quite fun backtracking our steps in the dark. Hiking in the dark is a very different experience as sometimes it’s hard to judge time and space. Although I had experience night hiking but I am still somewhat scared everytime. I know most of the time it’s irrational but a part of me still believe that something is in the woods (I guess this also is because there IS something in the woods, like bears). Thankfully my fear usually goes away in 10 to 15 minutes and after that it was just me in my headlamp bubble, putting one foot in front another.

Soon the moon rose above the ridge and it was bright. The stars were countless and we would turn off our headlamps, let our eyes adjust to the darkness and star gaze. The milky way galaxy centre was visible if one look at it long enough. We would occasionally get spooked by some small animals moving in the woods and pick up a brisk pace. Ironically this is also why I somehow enjoy night hiking as one becomes extra aware of their surroundings. It almost felt meditative.

*Back to the volcanic field with the last bit of light*, *another 2 hours ahead…*

Eventually we saw lights in tents and Lucas let out a “THANK-GOD”. I was glad that we made it back without being attacked by a bear as at the park entrance a ranger told us that there was an active bear in the area. Temperature was dropping quick and it was getting cold. We hung our food, star gazed for a bit and went into our sleeping bags.

It was surprisingly cold in the morning but I forced myself out of the sleeping bag at 6 to watch the sunrise. The tip of the Black Tusk slowly got illuminated and soon it became warmer. We had a lazy morning, enjoyed the campsite, had breakfast and finished packing up at around 9. It was time for the downhill all the way back to the parking lot and we led a brisk pace. 1.5 hours later we were at the trailhead to that stinky outhouse and it was a very hot day. I was glad that we were not heading up.

It was a great trip with greater company and I was happy that Defne and Lucas got to enjoy one of my favourite places. If you are reading this, I’m sure this won’t be our last adventure together and it’ll only be more epic next time.

Panorama Ridge via Helm Creek

Sky Pilot via Sea to Sky

Interlaken-Lauterbrunnen-Grindelwald (Part I)