Earlier in May I had climbed my first multi-pitch route (Star Chek, 5.9) with Chloe. On the drive back from Squamish, a newly established route “Throne of Kings” popped up on our google search of “best multi-pitch climbs near Squamish”. We read the descriptions on Mountain Project and I felt quite intimidated by the grade and the spacing of bolts. I was confident that I wouldn’t fall off a 5.9 pitch but climbing 5 meters above the last bolt still will make my butt clench nonetheless. Words such as “adventurous” and “exciting” were used in the route description and I didn’t think they were positive adjectives in this case.

I’m a firm believer of “climbing ability is the best safety measure”. It wouldn’t matter how far away from the last bolt I am if I just don’t fall. Subsequently, a lot of climbing was done and at the end of the season me and Chloe both felt prepared to give the route a go.

Our friend Joseph decided to join us with his brand new SUV along with Stefanija. The plan is to arrive at the base of the climb at 9 A.M. as the approach can take 30 minutes to an hour according to what we had researched. We arrived at the turn-off by the highway at 8:30, shortly after another party showed up. There was gear faff at the car and we started hiking after the other party. Joseph went to pee and sprained his ankle on a boulder so he was in great shape for a day of adventure.

The approach is quite steep and loose on slippery rocks and mud, we took it easy knowing that we would have to wait for the party in front anyway. Soon after we heard a shout of “off belay!” and we knew we had nailed the timing perfectly as the previous party had just finished leading the first pitch.

The route looked vertical. The style appeared to be very different from Sqamish granite climbing. We waited until the other party started on the second pitch before we started climbing as I had planned to link the first two pitches. I don’t usually like linking pitches because I hate rope drag but the first two pitches were easy enough. I scrambled up the first pitch and started off the second one, putting in draws when necessary to minimize rope drag. I caught up the the previous party but the anchor was still nowhere to be seen. I shouted up asking if the anchor was hidden away over a bulge in front of me. She said it should be below me. I had missed the anchor and started climbing the third pitch. I down-climbed about 10 meters and found the anchor under a roof. Quickly attached myself to the anchor, untied, pulled the rope down, tied back in and put Chloe on belay. Classic multi-pitch faff.

*Joseph arriving at the end of pitch 2, the views!*

The rocks were cold and my fingers were numb from pulling on sharp holds. The rocks were crumbly in places and there were some doubtful holds. The climbing felt vertical and I was certainly a little over-gripped. The end of pitch two was above the trees and we got a view of the Howe Sound with beautiful weather. We were psyched.

Chloe quickly set off, pulling a few hard moves over a roof, the pitch looked stiff the grade but she looked solid made it through without issues. I quickly got ready and started climbing, only to realized that my hands are too numb to feel anything. I put them under my armpits but it didn’t quite help. The pitch was quite steep but the jugs were awesome.

Feeling slightly pumped I took a breather at the ledge before setting off on the next short pitch. Following a series of jugs and a lovely traverse I arrived at a ledge that is comfy for two.

*Top of pitch 4, looking down, Chloe getting ready to follow up with the backpack*

The views were outrageous. Clouds casting shadows on the ocean and forest. We took a minute to take in the views and heard Joseph shouted from below: “Whales!” We looked down and a group of whales were breaching in a ring formation. We stood in awe and I felt like I was in a national geographic documentary. The climb could not have been in a more gorgeous setting.

As we were getting distracted by the views I realized some dark clouds were rolling in from the other side of the mountain. With the crux pitch still ahead it was a good idea to move faster. Chloe let the next pitch with ease and I followed with no issues. Then it’s my turn to lead the crux pitch.

*Triple checking everything before the lead*

I took a moment to look at where the pitch goes and where the hard sections then started climbing. The first 15m of climbing required some powerful moves so I knew I had to get climb fast through it. I trended slightly to the left, found a sneaky hand-jam in a crack and a left hand on a good crimp. I chalked up and just when I was going to pull up, the left hand hold broke, I somehow held on and didn’t fall. Using the remnants of the broken hold I got under the roof to a good rest. I took a good two minute rest since I was definitely feeling pumped. The next part is a thin traverse to the right and I started climbing before my hands get too cold again. Hand and foot holds were marginal and some stressful clipping was involved. Just when I felt like I was going to send to pitch, my left thumb hold broke and I was hanging from the rope. Thankfully I was right beside a quickdraw and getting back on the climb was not hard, the rest of the pitch were easier but the bolt spacing was quite exciting.

*Chloe on the crux pitch just before the traverse*

Shortly after I put Chloe on belay it started raining. I looked to the left and a double rainbow had appeared out of nowhere. The rain did not look like it was going to last but we’ve decided that we wanted to get off the climb as soon as possible. After Chloe got to the belay station we quickly set off again. The remaining pitches were easy so we simul/soloed to the top. The rain has stopped and it was sunny and beautiful again.

I enjoyed giant Bánh mì on top but Chloe forgot her food in the car. With the weather worsening and the parties behind us we decided to take the 4th class walk-off instead of faffing with the rappel. The walk-off was not nearly as bad as some of what we had read online. There were hand-lines for steep sections and we were down at the base of the climb in 30 minutes.

*The walk-off is actually quite a nice hike in the forest*

*Found this cool roof crack on the descend (5.13+?)*

Arriving at the base of the climb we chatted with another party that had just bailed because of the weather. Chloe had dropped her ATC mid-pitch so she climbed up again to search for it but was unsuccessful. We waited for Joseph and Stefanija to rappel down but they were nowhere to be seen. We were expecting to see them sooner as they brought two ropes so the rappel would be quicker. Finally we saw them coming down the lip of the cliff and realized that they had gotten their ropes stuck when they tried to pull. Thankfully, there was a party behind them and they unstuck the rope. Chloe was starving so she started eating chalk out of her chalk bag and quizzing me chemical formulas of minerals to keep me entertained. The day wasn’t over yet since we still had to walk down the approach to the car and the descend surely would be tricker with all the loose rocks. It was.

*Adventure is never over until you get back to the car*

My cravings for gummy bears grew the closer we got. I knew that I would have to come back and climb it again as it probably is one of the most scenic climbs on the Sea to Sky.

Some details of the climb:

Approach: 30 minutes

Climb: 3 hours 45 minutes

Walk-off: 30 minutes

Descend the approach: ~ 30 minutes

On the crux pitch it’s useful to extend the last draw if belaying on an ATC, as the rope runs horizontally to the anchor. We had two alpine draws, a ton of quickdraws (more than what’s necessary). The walk-off is easier, faster and less complicated than rappelling, especially when the route is busy. Take the walk-off.

Throne of Kings(5.10b)

El Potrero Chico

Weekend Shenanigans: Starlit Snoozes and Rock Climbing Goofs